Sorry, been very busy with just day to day. Like, I broke a BIG double pane window shooting a rock at it with a weed eater...SH**.
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So what might some of those items be? I don't have a South Bend, but there are some items that interchange very well between South Bends and Logans. With that thought in mind, one never knows what I might nibble on.

I have used HSS on 303 stainless with very good results, but I have no idea what would happen if you attempted to use a HSS boring bar on that cast SS prop. It is anybody's guess as to what alloy that might be.

I did try knurling Delrin and UHMW in the past with mixed results using a plunge knurling tool. Yours turned out very nicely! Like you, I prefer to not use those plunge tools, so knurling is something that I usually do not do anymore. Building a scissors style knurling tool is on my list of to-dos, but that list is huge. Eight months until I retire and I hope to have more time available then.

Yes, you can knurl Delrin and it isn't that difficult to do, at least for straight knurling. I would make sure the knurls are sharp, and clean. Ground and lapped knurls would be the best. Any imperfections in your knurlers will telegraph into the Delrin/work. And IMHO male and female diamond knurls work as well with a little more finesse. Have not tried any other type of plastic. Anybody out there tried knurling plastic other than Delrin.

I suppose the type of knurling tool design could have its differences on out come? I do not have a plunging type knurler. IMHO it's too hard on the feed screw and its nut.

Apparently all the boring bars I have are the cheap import brazed carbide ones with the inserts chipped out and stick out way to far so I ended up using a 1" endmill.  Ended up working good but I have a feeling that particular flute is a little fudged up now.  Oh well.   

Interesting little project I picked up over the weekend at the marina.
Guy wants me to remove an inch off the diffuser ring of his boat propeller.  I'd prefer to cut it on the lathe but sadly I only have 11" swing and the prop is like 15"  My next thought is to clamp it to the mill table via the center hole and use a boring head to "turn"" it down. It's fairly thin wall cross section (.070) and cast S.S.
In theory it seems like it will be ok but maybe you guys have other suggestions.  I have limited tooling for the boring head so I'll need to check and see what's available in my tool box.  The other thought was to just walk it around X/Y hand cranking with a carbide endmill.  but it seems like that might end up like a raccoon went after it.   

Thank you for your interest, Ken. I'm always doing odd ball projects in my Hobby Shop. In the past, I have shimmed up one of the jaws in a standard 3jaw to get off-set. Maybe this Union chuck will come in handy? Maybe even take one jaw and turn it around? It could open-up more capabilities. So, for now, I would like to add it to my piles...Dave

But, I do have some South Bend 9" lathe random items that I don't have any use for.

I've never seen a 3-jaw before. Seen many 4-jaw ones over the years. I think the Adjuster True chucks replaced this Union Chuck. If you decide not to keep it, I maybe interested in buying it from you, like I need another lathe chuck.

Ya gotta love it when you get to use the machinery to create something useful!  Makes me feel kinda justified in my hobby when that happens!